I just brought my new Kubota L2800 HST home yesterday, not new, new to me, 430 hours on it. I’ve read almost every thread that I could find here on issues to be aware of and it seems like I’m cursed with all of them. The jerky 3pt, and the coupling PTO problems.
This morning I have been mowing with a PRD7200 wood finishing mower and have noticed a couple of things with the PTO. First of all, HST is new to me, but I think I understand the gist of how everything works, or should work anyway. The problems I had this morning were,
Sometimes when I engage the PTO (clutch down), I release the clutch and hear the grinding sound that it is not fully engaged, I immediately reconnect the clutch and shift the PTO again applying a little pressure forward on the handle and then as I let out on the clutch that is activated. I cut about 3 acres with it and this happened to me a couple of times when I was stopping and starting for various reasons and had to re-engage the PTO.
One time when I was mowing the PTO disengaged on its own and started to grind, I immediately engaged the clutch, then fully disengaged the PTO and that’s when I stopped mowing until I can figure out what’s going on here.
I have read all the posts about PTO problems and have seen the pictures of the internal gears / clutch mechanism. I have to say that I think I have read too much and now I am more confused than ever. I understand that I have an ORC and have heard that it makes the clicking noise which seems normal to me and sounds like a much more tolerable sound than the sound here when the PTO is not fully engaged. From my reading it seems like people are saying that these are the same problems and the same gear / clutch parts making both noises. I disagree, I think they are totally different because the sound comes from two different places and it sounds different. I have also noticed that people try to hit the clutch when disengaging the PTO to prevent the ORC from clicking. In my opinion that’s why the ORC is installed there and it shouldn’t be damaging anything by working as designed and making a little click. Now the sound I get when the PTO is not fully engaged is a different story, I can tell this is not normal and should not be happening. So this brings me to the next part of this book … How to adjust, or attempt to adjust, the power take-off cable. I noticed that next to the PTO handle, where the cable enters, there is a threaded portion that goes through the mounting bracket. Tightening the two nuts (one on each side, loosening one and tightening the other) will the cable tighten? I also realized that I could do the same at the bottom where it connects to the lever on the side of the gearbox. Not sure if this is the fitting place or does that just fit the cable housing and do nothing to the internal cable?
The cable has been well lubricated and the handle seems to work smoothly and easily but I don’t think you are pushing the lever far enough into the transmission. (It may not be the transmission, but the area under the deck board where it enters the tractor.)
I have read about the rubber boots that are on the cable that allow the cable to bend in those areas and also the possibility that the cable becomes too weak to apply enough force to fully engage the PTO.
In short, I just got this thing at home and the last thing I want to do is screw up this internal PTO to where I have to spend a ton of $$$ to get it fixed. I’m a little scared to use it as is.
What recommended fix should I start?
Again, sorry for the long post, but I thought I needed to take this to the experts and see what I should do …
Thanks in advance…
Try disconnecting the cable from the transmission lever and see how much the lever moves in the “engage” direction. With the hand lever in the “engaged” position, adjust the end of the cable to match the drive lever when it is also engaged. I would leave a bit of slack at the end of the ride, you don’t want it to be pushed to the limit either.