How and what to feed gladioli
In small individual areas, it is advisable to apply mineral fertilizers in liquid form into the grooves between the rows of gladioli, or by continuous irrigation, followed by washing the leaves with clean water. It is possible to increase the effect of liquid dressings even more if the required amount of mineral and organic fertilizers is divided into 2 parts and applied in two doses with an interval of 6-7 days. Application of half doses of fertilizers is especially desirable on sandy soils. If the weather is cold and rainy, then top dressing is not carried out. You can not apply chemical treatment and carry out any top dressing if the gladioli lack moisture – this can lead to leaf burns and damage to the roots.
During the growing season, 2 foliar top dressings with microelements are used. This increases the decorative qualities of gladioli, as well as the plant’s resistance to adverse weather conditions and disease resistance. The first spraying with microelements is carried out when 3-4 leaves grow. V1 l dissolve water: 0.4 g magnesium sulfate, 0.06 g molybdenum 0.2 g zinc sulfate, 0.15 g potassium permanganate, 0.05 g boric acid, 0.02 gcopper sulphate (copper sulfate). Spray on the leaves in the evening. The second spraying is carried out before flowering: in1 l water is dissolved in 0.2 gboric acid, potassium permanganate and zinc sulfate. In the absence of trace elements, they can be replaced with a solution of wood ash (200 g on the 10 lwater), the solution is prepared as described earlier. However, if the weather is hot, then 2-fold spraying with zinc sulfate in the indicated dose is mandatory, because. zinc regulates water balance in plants.
Diseases and pests of gladioli
Gladioli suffer from many diseases – bacterial, fungal, viral. Diseases and pests can be transmitted with planting material, through the soil, through the air, and viral ones can be transmitted by insects and cutting tools when cutting inflorescences. An inexperienced florist is unlikely to distinguish one disease from another, and this is not necessary, because in all cases, along with the root system, destroy it. These are sick corms, and the plants grown from them will not be full-fledged and can infect healthy ones. Most often, the defeat of diseases and pests externally manifests itself in the form of browning of the tips of the leaves, followed by blanching of their color. Coloring is not restored even after fertilizing.
Any treatment of the disease is more difficult than its prevention, therefore it is necessary to treat gladioli plantings regularly after 15-20 days and start preventive treatments already when 3-4 true leaves appear. During the growing season, 2-4 fungicide treatments are done (depending on the weather conditions of the season and the degree of infection of the site). To do this, use (on10 l water): copper oxychloride 30 g, Bordeaux liquid 1.5 g, infusion of garlic 100 gor use more effective systemic drugs with double action (protective and healing): fundazol, tecto, ridomil, alto, etc. It is allowed to use any of the preparations no more than 2 times per season, tk. pathogenic microorganisms that cause gladiolus disease develop resistance to chemicals very quickly. In the phase of nomination of inflorescences and budding, it is necessary to carry out at least two treatments, with an interval of 5-8 days – from thrips, the most dangerous sucking pest of gladioli. For this, karbofos, decis, BI-58 or any other drugs approved for combating sucking and leaf-eating pests are used. The karate drug has proven itself very well (20 g on the 10 lwater).
Cut flowers correctly
It is carried out in the early morning hours or in the evening, when the plants do not suffer from a lack of moisture, after the opening of the 2nd flower. If gladioli are intended for transportation, then they are cut in the phase of 1-2 colored lower buds. The main condition is the preservation of at least 4 true leaves on the plant. But the more leaves left, the better the corm grows and develops. Cut off in this way: the stem below the inflorescence is taken in the left hand and cut horizontally or obliquely at the height of the 4-5th true leaf with a sharp knife so that after a slight effort it is removed by a rotational movement upwards from the leaf sheath. This method is laborious, but it guarantees the correct growth and maturation of corms.
In late autumn, with a lack of heat and excess moisture, gladiolus can be cut off at the time of the coloring of the lower bud that has just begun. Such peduncles, placed in water in a warm room, fully open after a few days, but will have smaller flowers. To prolong the life of cut flowers, a 60% sucrose solution is used.
Digging up the bulbs
It should be remembered when growing gladioli: harvesting depends on the period of planting in the ground, the precocity of the variety and weather conditions. To ensure good maturation of the bulbs, which guarantees their preservation during long-term winter storage, digging should begin 30-40 days after the start of flowering or cutting the peduncle. In mature corms, the baby is brown and is easily separated from them when digging, therefore, in order to avoid clogging the site and losses, the children start digging a little earlier than the full ripening of the bulbs. In the northern regions, it is possible to dig from mid-September and finish no later than the first days of October, before the onset of severe frosts. Dig better in dry sunny weather. In case of severe damage to plantings by diseases or the arrival of early cold weather, early digging is recommended (in early September). It is better to lose corms in size than to lose them completely. After harvesting the gladioli, the stem is cut off, leaving a stump no more than1 cm. Experienced flower growers prefer to carefully break out the stem without leaving a hemp. It is advisable to immediately separate the old bulb and trim the roots. After that, they are washed in water and soaked for 30 minutes in an infusion of garlic (300 g on the 10 lwater and insist 2 hours). This treatment kills the surface infection and adult thrips. Then this bulb must be dried: first at a temperature of 28 degrees, then a week at 20 degrees. Small corms are better stored if their roots are not cut off, but cut short. After drying, corms are cleaned of the remaining stem, dead roots, old bulb and the top layer of covering scales. Then they are calibrated by parsing, laid out in containers for storage and transferred to storage, which must be maintained at a constant temperature within 3-8 degrees and relative humidity of 60-70%. If the temperature is more than 10 degrees, then a tripe may appear on the bulbs. In this case, treatment with dichlorvos is possible: the bulbs are placed in a plastic bag, an aerosol of the drug is sprayed there for 3-5 seconds, Tie tightly and leave for 3-4 hours. After that, the material is aired and put away for storage again.
In urban apartments, planting material can be stored between frames or balcony doors until frost sets in, and then in the dry and coolest place of the apartment away from batteries. Small quantities can be stored in the refrigerator wrapped in newspaper or in cloth bags.
Regardless of the method of storage, all planting material is checked at least once a month, all rotten bulbs and bulbs with signs of disease are destroyed.